the Chef’s Reminder

A significant gift I received for Christmas last year turned out to be a little red book entitled “A Selection of Dishes and the Chef’s Reminder”.  The book was purchased by my mother at a public library book sale for $4, and given to me by younger sisters.  Obviously the book was worth more to me than $4 or I would not be writing a blog post on it.  The book was copyrighted in 1896 and 1909, by Charles Fellows and John Willy respectively, my copy being the book’s tenth edition.  It is the book’s content, however, that makes it most fascinating to me.  Most of the book is occupied by a series of entries describing specific dishes.  Many of the dishes are ones that today’s chef might not be familiar with.  Even those dishes that remain, to a greater or lesser extent, in use today, seem to be written with a set of considerations in mind that is entirely different from that of today’s chef. A good example might be the entry for sauce espagnole on page 77:  “Ham, veal, beef, in meat and bones, fried till brown, with carrots, onions, turnips, celery, parsley, thyme, marjoram, savory, bay-leaves, cloves, allspice and pepper, enough flour added to form a brown roux, moistened gradually with good stock, add plenty of tomatoes,  two or three chickens or roast fowl carcasses, simmer slowly for several hours, add sherry wine, and strain.”  Other content that I found particularly interesting included the list of “hints to cooks and stewards” on pages 111-116, a consolidation of culinary dictums that the author was clearly familiar with.  I would personally be interested in knowing what light scientific investigation might shed on the list.   I was also intrigued by the section on pages 192 and 193 titled “a private dinner menu”, which includes the menu served by Fellows to a man described as “the millionaire and terrapin king” Mr. Hermann Oelrichs, along with the accompanying “waiter’s instructions”.  The aforementioned menu, as well as the book as a whole, provide a fascinating glimpse into a previous chapter of American haute cuisine.

The Chef’s Reminder may be read on Google books here, or purchased online relatively inexpensively.

Changes in Class

My time at the PCI has been going quite well thus far.  I have been receiving reasonably good grades, and more importantly, I am learning much.  Just this week, we have had a bit of a transition in both our curriculum and our class dynamics.  While our chef-instructor’s original plan was to begin on the study of the physiology of taste and smell this week, a change of plans has meant that we are now delving into international cuisine first.  While each student would previously work primarily from their base station for the completion of all dishes, we now rotate work stations so that each station may be affixed to the preparation of a specific dish.  Additionally, the chef is now beginning to  demonstrate more extracurricular dishes.  Those he has covered in Chinese cuisine are hand-pulled noodles and Peking duck (my workstation partner, Andy, brought the air compressor).  To maximize my education value, I am continuing to frequent my chef-instructor’s night class on Monday through Wednesday.  I usually practice dishes or techniques I have learned during my regular class, with my chef-instructor’s oversight.  We will, however, occasionally work on something outside of the curriculum (N-ZORBIT M maltodextrin was interesting).  Sometimes I also help out at the PCI with special events.  Yesterday I had to turn down the opportunity to work at a banquet from 2 pm to 10 pm, from the 17th through 22nd, at $15 per hour, not only because of scheduling issues, but also because I will not work on Sundays.

This Wednesday, chef Marc Bauer from the FCI (who was once chef-instructor to Wylie Dufresne) gave a demonstration garlic soup with rock shrimp and pesto, duck breast with pomegranate, brussels sprouts, and parsnip puree, and mango and apple tart tatin with coconut and lime sorbet.  During the demonstration, he demonstrated the use of the Vita-Mix blender for garlic soup as well as the pesto and sorbet.  All three dishes where quite good.  The element that particularly interested me was the dark baked strip of coconut meat he used to garnish the sorbet.

a Statment of Culinary Principles

What follows is a list of a number of principles I believe have come to define my thinking about cuisine, and the practice of a chef more specifically.   Note that this statement is by no means exhaustive, and for purposes of this statement their are many subjects that I have but touched upon.

Preliminary Principles:

1.       The chef’s goal, in its entirety, must be to glorify and bring pleasure to his Creator.

2.       The chef must be a perfectionist.  His ingredients must be of the highest quality, or otherwise best suited to his ends.  He must constantly refine his skills and repertoire in order to improve the dining experience he is able to offer.  The chef must be prepared to change any practice which proves to be compromise.  The chef must learn from his shortcomings.

3.       The chef must be prepared to go to whatever lengths necessary to ensure that his ideals are fulfilled as closely as possible.

4.       The chef must think outside the box in devising the means by which his ideals will be fulfilled.  He must recognize the need for science, technology, and collaboration with those within and without the strictly defined culinary sphere.

5.       While science and technology may play an increasing role in cuisine, they must still be considered only supplementary to taste and experience.

6.       The chef must maintain a well ordered restaurant.  He must recognize the necessity of both mise en place in the kitchen and a well choreographed service.  The respective tasks that need to be done simultaneously or according to a certain order of operations must be well coordinated.

7.       The chef must not compromise the safety of the diner.  Food must be prepared under sanitary conditions, and the products he uses must be safe and wholesome in the quantities they are served.

Developing the Dining Experience within a Multimedia Framework:

8.      A diner’s perception of a given experience will be depend a great deal upon the diner’s own reference points, along with a myriad of other factors, both physical and psychological.

9.   A dining experience that emotionally impacts the diner (sometimes referred to as the sixth sense) will be much more rich and memorable than a dining experience that merely impacts the diner at an intellectual and physical level.

10.    Although requisite that the diner be to some degree emotionally detached from events immediately preceding the dining experience, the chef may aim at evoking memories more deeply rooted within the diner.

11.    As dining is a multi-sensory experience, all five senses effect a diner’s perception of food.  Since the various areas of the human brain that process different forms of stimuli and pleasure are in fact neurologically connected, the chef  may purposefully induce and exploit environmental stimuli other than food itself in order to enhance the dining experience.  Certain external environmental stimuli may even require the active participation of the diner.

12.   In seeking to understand the relationship between the dining experience and human perception, the chef may look to such fields as neurology and physiology.   The knowledge attained by studies of human flavor preferences and human behavioral patterns in the area of eating can be particularly enlightening to the chef.

13.   Fine dining can provide a form of pleasure that transcends pleasure derived from the physical satisfaction of the appetite.  Standards of culinary aesthetic evaluation have traditionally recognized, although not necessarily articulated as such, an appreciation of a good balance of flavors, textures, and colors, as well as an appreciation of novelty, especially regarding foods associated with luxury.  Of course, eating cannot be completely removed from its functional, utilitarian, purpose.

14.   When a chef serves a dish which challenges (in a constructive manner) the preconceptions of a diner who is well informed of existing  standards of culinary aesthetic evaluation, he provides the diner with one of the highest forms of intellectual stimulation.  His work may thereby be compared with that of artists in other fields.

The Development of Cuisine:

15.   The chef must look beyond immediate trends within the culinary sphere in order to set the future direction of creative cuisine.

16.   A chef may adapt existing dishes, emphasizing particular qualities or characteristics of those dishes, or develop new dishes, through any number of creative models.  Nature can also be a rich source of inspiration for new dishes.  The chef should place special emphasis on the creative developmental process in general.

17.   Culinary heritages that have historically been devoted to gastronomy are a rich source of inspiration for the chef today.  It is not enough for the chef to explore only the range of culinary possibilities offered within his own cultural framework.  The chef must collaborate with those with expertise in food cultures other than his own.

18.   The chef must not restrict himself to developing dishes that fit neatly within traditional categorization, in particular, the traditional sweet-savory distinctions; although the chef must still be aware of the role these categorizations play.

19.   New ingredients, transformation processes, and even service methodologies can be a source of inspiration for new dishes to a limited extent if such fit within his overarching ideals.

The Attainment of Defined Ideals:

20.   No preparation should be considered above reexamination and scientific inquiry, no matter how traditional or pervasive.  The chef must not simply believe culinary dictums that have been perpetrated without adequate verification; they often prove false.

21.   A scientific understanding of the composition of ingredients, whether natural or processed, simple or complex, and how characteristics of ingredients may be modified by various processes, or methods of combining with other ingredients, enable the chef to decide what ingredients, processes, or combination methods to use to reach the desired result.

22.   The use of highly precise measurement devices, whether they measure temperature, mass, ph, brix, or some other quality, enable the chef to accurately monitor processes that produce changes that can be quantified by such instruments.

23.   The expanding array of equipment available to the chef offers many options for fulfilling both existing and new functions.  The chef must learn to utilize, both equipment that is capable of transforming ingredients in new ways, and equipment capable of fulfilling existing purposes more accurately and effectively.

Two Months at the PCI

I first announced my enrollment in the PCI culinary program at the two-week mark.  Now, at the two-month mark, it is time for a further update.  In these two months our class has covered the fundamentals of soups, sauces, vegetable cookery, and meat cookery.  At this point we are beginning to place more emphasis on plating complete dishes.  Although I am in the day class, I am also frequenting the evening class for extra practice on the procedures I am learning.  I would caution any young aspiring chef who is considering the question of whether to go to culinary school not to be arrogant about the knowledge they already have.  Regardless of how many books you have read, regardless of how much independent practice you have had, there are always those details you some how manage to miss.  Because I tend to think of the culinary arts in very broad terms (my next post will demonstrate this), it has been very helpful for me to become better grounded in the fundamentals of cooking through the highly execution-driven approach the program entails.

Two Weeks at the PCI

By way of update, I am now enrolled in the Professional Culinary Institute’s Essential Professional Culinary Skills Program, which began on November 29th (the PCI is now a branch campus of the French Culinary Institute in NYC).  Up until enrolling in the PCI, I have had concern that I was not adequately preparing myself for my career path this year.  Although I will still be completing high school concurrently (one advantage of being a homeschooler), I believe starting the PCI culinary program now give me a head start on accomplishing my objectives.

My career goal is to be a chef/restaurateur.  I will seek to eventually own and operate a restaurant, because this model will best fit within the entrepreneurial business framework I have embraced.  While my previous plan was to take the “school of hard knocks” route, which would mean directly entering the restaurant industry without formal instruction (comparatively common within the industry), after receiving solid advice, and giving the matter more thought, I have come to believe that receiving formal culinary instruction at the PCI will enable me  to realize my goal sooner.

The PCI culinary program, which is both accelerated, and includes no general education, uses an approach to  teaching called Artisense, which entails a high emphasis on the demonstration and execution of technique and procedure.  Other factors which influenced my choice of the PCI include the small class size (16 students maximum), small and personal school environment, opportunities to work with instructors off-hours on extracurricular activities, and the fact that the school is only about 5 minutes drive from home, which will enable me to remain engaged in home life.

I have been in school two weeks thus far, week one covering safety and sanitation through ServSafe training; week two we began Essential Skills 1, which covers the fundamentals of cooking.

Savory Chestnut Bread Pudding

Given the season, it seemed to me fitting that my first recipe to post should be a comfort food.  While many people think of bread puddings as dessert, savory bread pudding is also traditional.  This bread pudding utilizes roast chestnuts, one of my favorite Autumn ingredients.  While the salt pork may epitomize dietary backwardness to some, there is no reason for the rest of us to fear using it.  Bear in mind that this dish is very rich.

165 g. unsalted butter + extra for the baking dish

1 baguette (450 g.)

450 g. chestnuts

grapeseed oil

150 g. salt pork, skin removed, flesh and fat sliced .75 cm thick

1 large onion, cut into 1 cm dice (225 g. diced onion)

6 cloves garlic, minced (16 g. minced garlic)

8 g. sage leafs, rolled and very thinly sliced

625 g. whole milk

300 g. heavy cream

4 g. kosher salt

5 twists black pepper

a few gratings nutmeg

8 large egg yokes (120 g.)

2 large eggs (90 g.)

115 g. emmentaller cheese, grated

Slowly melt 150 g. butter in a saucepan.  Turn the heat to medium low and cook until the butter turns deep brown and smells very nutty, 7-8 minutes .  Strain the butter into another container and set aside until needed.

Preheat an oven 120° C.  Remove the ends from the bread and cut the loaf into 1.5 cm. cubes.  Spread the bread out on a large baking sheet in a single layer.  Place in the oven until slightly dehydrated, 30-40 minutes.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool.  Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

Preheat an oven to 175° C.  Cut an X-mark on each chestnut.  Place the chestnuts on a medium baking sheet and coat slightly with oil.  Place in the oven to roast for about 45-55 minutes, until shells are beginning to separate from the nutmeats.  The shells should darken slightly and chestnuts should be fragrant. Allow the chestnuts to cool until they can be handled comfortably, then shell and chop roughly.  Weigh out 245 g. roast chestnuts and add to the bowl with the bread.

Place the salt pork in a saucepan with cold water to cover completely.  Bring to a boil, than reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.  Drain the salt pork and transfer to a cutting board until cool.  Cut the boiled salt pork into .5 cm. dice.  Weigh out 90 g. and transfer to the bowl with the bread.

Melt the remaining 15 g. butter in a sauté pan over medium heat.  Add the onions and sauté, stirring frequently, until partly softened, 5-6 minutes.  Add the garlic and sage, and continue to sauté until the onions are soft but not browned, 3-4 minutes.  Transfer to the bowl with the bread and mix well.

Preheat an oven to 150° C.

Butter a deep baking dish capable of holding 2.5 litters.  Transfer the bread mixture to the baking dish.

Bring a film of water to a boil in a saucepan.  Add the milk, cream, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and 80 g. prepared brown butter.  Bring to a simmer.

In a medium bowl, beat together the egg yokes and whole eggs until the color lightens slightly.  Slowly whisk in the milk mixture to temper the eggs.  Pour this mixture over the bread mixture in the baking dish. Sprinkle the cheese on top.

Place in a larger baking dish and pour boiling water into the larger baking dish until it comes halfway up the sides of the dish with the bread pudding.

Place in the oven to cook for approximately 1 hour, until almost set.   Remove the bread pudding from the oven, remove from the water bath and set on a rack.  Allow to cool for 30 minutes before serving.

A Review of Ferran: The Inside Story of El Bulli and the Man Who Reinvented Food by Colman Andrews

“This will be the last book about me.  No, really.  The last one that I will collaborate with.” -Ferran Adrià, in conversation with the (book’s) author

What more may be said of the most famous chef on earth?  His culinary philosophy has arguably had more impact on gastronomy than any movement since nouvelle cuisine.  His restaurant was voted the best in the world for a number of years in this last decade.  And whether you believe his statement or not, he has been known to quote the number of requests for reservations his restaurant turns down in a year at 2 million.  Numerous fellow chefs, from Catalan Santi Santamaria, to the profane Anthony Bourdain, have vocalized opinions of him.

True to the Author’s Note, Colman Andrews avoids covering those aspects of El Bulli that have already been sufficiently reiterated.  The rendering does indeed qualify as an “inside story”.

Throughout the story, Colman Andrews provides us a picture of a very human Ferran (in the book he is referred to by his first name alone) while documenting the extraordinary (but gradual) transformation of El Bulli (referred to as El Bulli rather than elBulli throughout the book) into the icon it has become.  Ferran leads a surprisingly simple personal life.  He is a man of rather ordinary physical attributes.  His background would have given no hints of his destiny.  Throughout the first half of his adulthood he was known within his immediate circle for partying.  To this day, it seems he is not above arguing with his brother Albert over soccer at the Taller.  At the end of the book we find that, alas, the chef who discovered culinary deconstruction has not found ultimate meaning in life.

The flow of the book lags periodically.  Colman Andrews makes a less than perfect attempt to describe his own dining experience at El Bulli (reading through the feedback letters in Food for Thought/Thought for Food may be more insightful.)  When descriptions are given of the El Bulli environment, for those who have not had the privilege of experiencing El Bulli first-hand,referring to pictures from A Day at elBulli may be helpful.

All in all, Colman Andrew’s judgment in designating Ferran an “authentic genius” is a sentiment I have heard shared by more than one gastronome.  As is made sufficiently clear in the last chapter Morphing, since Ferran’s announcement early this year that El Bulli would be closing to later reopen as a foundation, the future of El Bulli is uncertain.  I, for one, do not believe this will be the last book on Ferran or El Bulli.     

Harold McGee at the Commonwealth

On Monday, my father and I attended a presentation featuring Harold McGee .  The presentation was hosted by the Commonwealth Club of California, at the Sabrato Community Conference Center.

Harold McGee is author of On Food and Cooking, known as one of the most comprehensive books of its subject, and one I have found very useful for reference.

As it turns out, the presentation was given in Q & A style, with the interviewer being Chef George Hadres of the Professional Culinary Institute.

People in the audience were encouraged to write down questions for Harold McGee to answer.  My own question had to do with the impact of calcium salts on gelatin-based systems.

The presentation turned out to be quite interesting.  Among other things, he discussed microwaves, Teflon pans, raw foods, salt, sous-vide cooking, monosodium glutamate, and the term molecular gastronomy.

Harold McGee likened recipes to documents, that must be translated to the cook’s unique context.

He made the interesting observation that if a cook can’t control heat, it is as if they are cooking with one hand tied behind their back.

He also mused that we are barely conscious of all the factors that influence our perception of food.

For the podcast: http://itunes.apple.com/podcast/commonwealth-club-radio-program/id113721208

Nils Noren at the PCI

Yesterday my father and I attended a demonstration by Nils Noren.   The Professional Culinary Institute in Campbell was having an open house, and Nils was invited as a guest chef from the French Culinary Institute in NYC.  Nils is vice president of culinary and pastry art at French Culinary Institute and an author of the blog http://www.cookingissues.com/ along with Dave Arnold.  An article featuring him and Dave recently appeared in Time Magazine http://www.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,2020554,00.html.  The demonstration we attended was comfortably small and we got to see him working up close.

He demonstrated the usage of a chamber vacuum sealer by collapsing mini marshmallows and infusing diced apples with curry oil (you can read about the latter technique here: http://www.cookingissues.com/2009/05/20/apple-and-curry/#more-648 ).  He also demonstrated the preparation of a  seared scallop dish.  As the audience was small, we were able to sample the dish.  The seared scallop was accompanied by marinated salmon roe, coconut fluid gel, curried leeks with golden raisins, curry-oil infused apple, egg cream, and Thai basil.

After the demonstration I had a chance to meet Nils.  He is easy to talk to, a very unpretentious guy.

As I am considering enrolling in the Professional Culinary Institute, I was encouraged by the partnership between the French Culinary Institute and the Professional Culinary Institute.  Students and alumni will be able to access the French Culinary Institute community page.

Next Monday I plan to be at the Commonwealth Club of  California in San Jose for a lecture by Harold McGee.

 

Who wants just another food blog?

Since late 2005, I have made a habit of being a causal food blog reader.   My interest in food and cooking in general began in early 2005.  If we go back before that my interest was in visual arts, and if we rewind to when I was a young child, my primary interest was in building with legos.  I like to think that I have always had a creative inclination.

As of today, I am aspiring to be a chef.  The idea that starting a food blog could facilitate the process did not occur to me.  however, I have been urged to start a food blog by multiple individuals, and at some point the idea began to make sense.

I have procrastinated long enough.  The blog that I now hope to write will be a chronicle of my journey.  Along the way, I plan to post recipes, musings on culinary philosophy, and perhaps the occasional cookbook/restaurant review.   Enjoy.